As the autumnal feelings fall upon us, many yearn for the local diner around the corner, with a designated booth for the couple that has eaten there every Wednesday for decades. It is slightly run-down, with coffee that tastes a little burnt, served with a cinnamon roll overflowing the plate—a combo that could be purchased with pocket change.
These defining characteristics contribute to the ways Americana joints are romanticized in the media, but their roots in cheap eats and lively gatherings make us miss a time where a daily stop for some sustenance didn’t have to be so thought out. Places like these have been immortalized through film, books, songs, etc., and represent a foundational setting for a nostalgic memory. There’s a battle of eats within the city, with competitive prices and a race for trendy chow. But how does the ambiance of high end eateries compared to reliable homey joints impact SF’s culture around food? Is one pushing the other out of the competition?
The middle-class restaurant is based on the connections people share with their community; there is always a spot that is a staple of a town or city–the coffee shop where the baristas know your name, or the breakfast place that has stayed the same for a lifetime, growing older along with its regulars.
These are sites often described as a “third place,” where people can go in and out without the need for an excuse or occasion. From picking up burritos in pajamas to conversing with old friends from the neighborhood, this third place is fundamental to community and the connection with one’s environment. These restaurants hold memories and routine, something that is clashed by the rapidly incoming expectations of dining culture. In San Francisco, restaurants often have to sacrifice reliable comfort for money-making glamor and uniqueness. In an economy dependent on people going out to dine and monetary participation with surrounding small businesses, it seems as though the cozy diner from our collective memories has no place for profit.
For guidance on the topic of a cozy “third place,” we can turn to those who know their food: Anthony Bourdain. Bourdain visited the “Swan Oyster Depot” in the city, and had anecdotes about its down to earth, no strings attached, genuine seafood. This gives the impression of a spot that doesn’t need to flaunt their uniqueness or their excitingly rare flavor combinations. Instead, they express value through the quality of fresh bites. Though it is frequented and famously recognized, “Swan Oyster Depot” is exemplary of a crowd pleaser, maybe not for a daily stop for a dozen oysters, but a formative restaurant that contributes to the city’s seaside identity.
Operating any restaurant is an expensive endeavor from all standpoints. For a customer, the average price per meal is $71.67, an investment breaking away from a daily or weekly habit, which mid-tier restaurants rely on. According to Escouffier School of Culinary Arts, cafes and diners make up 33% of popular restaurants, whereas Restroworks concludes that fine dining restaurants only make up 1%, but are the leading factor of growth in the industry. Consumers are drawn to what is new, often exemplified by farm-to-table menus or seasonal offerings found among the higher tiers of dining. Trends are influential on the restaurant industry and can often play a role in income, varying the earnings of a business. For instance, technological ordering systems reduce tipping, similarly with online ordering, where a significant amount of the price comes from transportation and delivery. Opening a restaurant is one thing, but building an identity in the hubbub of food variety, and remaining as a staple, is another. It is a circular struggle within the industry, with businesses tripping over each other as one replaces another.
In order to stay afloat as a restaurant in San Francisco, businesses are encouraged to provide an experience: one often based in luxury. When going out to eat is a costly activity, people are less likely to spend at a day-to-day spot, forcing more casual businesses out of the loop. If customers are going out to dinner, it becomes less of a routine where people are “regulars,” and more of a commodity.
In many ways, this can be exciting; fine dining provides a place to celebrate or experiment. However, the stark contrast of the inexpensive fast-food chains and the exclusive fine-dining experience appears to be setting off a trend where the neighborhood-centric restaurant is less of an option. Culinary experimentation is an exciting aspect of the industry that can be more vocalized in the mid-tier restaurants. It does not only have to be limited to high end businesses.
Culture is shared through food, and restaurants provide a meeting place for communities and shared memories over meals. It is crucial that local businesses are supported in order to maintain communal economies. Variety is essential when it comes to dining establishments, and the idea of a fancy restaurant is a great outing for special occasions, but the casual dinner spot is a defining feature of any community. It becomes a question of how eating out is embedded into routine and if we are moving into a more individualized or secluded setting in which we source our meals.
